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Old 04-03-2007, 09:28 AM   #76
Cranky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4camwonder
it very well may be... like i said i cant remember... ive got 2 440's and have been thinking of running a 400 crank in one of them which makes a 490 something, almost 500 ci.
383 and 400's are low deck blocks with shorter strokes than the RB (raised deck) blocks are. The 400 has a larger bore than the 440 by .020 in stock form but has a 3.375 stroke while the 440 has a 3.750 stroke so sticking a 383/400 crank into a 440 block will destroke it. Another little trick to get more cubes using the 440 crank is to offset grind it to the big block Chevy 2.200 (iirc) rod journal bearings. This will get you around 470 cubes using the 400 block. The main idea in using the 400 block is that's it's more compact than the 440 block and it generally has more meat in the main web areas and also since the cylinders are a bit shorter, they are more rigid.
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Old 04-03-2007, 09:47 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cranky
383 and 400's are low deck blocks with shorter strokes than the RB (raised deck) blocks are. The 400 has a larger bore than the 440 by .020 in stock form but has a 3.375 stroke while the 440 has a 3.750 stroke so sticking a 383/400 crank into a 440 block will destroke it. Another little trick to get more cubes using the 440 crank is to offset grind it to the big block Chevy 2.200 (iirc) rod journal bearings. This will get you around 470 cubes using the 400 block. The main idea in using the 400 block is that's it's more compact than the 440 block and it generally has more meat in the main web areas and also since the cylinders are a bit shorter, they are more rigid.
Welcome Cranky....I didn't expect anyone to sign up...lol
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Old 04-19-2007, 11:14 PM   #78
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Well, no pics as of yet, but I just picked up a 4L80E trans and some 42 lb injectors last Friday. The 4L80E will be mated via JW ultrabell and flexplate, a converter of unkown origin (at the moment, until I decide on which brand to use) and a full manual valve body. 4 forward gears and lockup converter ought to make this one a comfy street pounder!

EDIT: Lock up will be actuated via electronic circuit, involving a microswtich on 4th gear (for 4th gear engagement only) and either speed sensoro, map sensor, or programmable output on holley commander 950. Or maybe a combination of the 3....
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Last edited by Tubbed440; 04-19-2007 at 11:16 PM..
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Old 05-22-2007, 09:11 PM   #79
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Just a little more progress....not much. Trying to get finished with the reverse cooling mock-up.











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Old 05-22-2007, 09:11 PM   #80
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Old 05-22-2007, 09:57 PM   #81
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Coolant routing all you need to mock up, before paint? Looking good.
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Old 05-22-2007, 09:59 PM   #82
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RTR is actually making some sense.RTR is actually making some sense.RTR is actually making some sense.
i LOVE the old school direct connection timing cover, badass!
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Old 05-22-2007, 10:09 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichardCranium
Coolant routing all you need to mock up, before paint? Looking good.
Still got to put the front bars through the firewall, install dash, install JW ultra-bell on 4L80E (put it in the car and fab up a tranny mount), driveshaft, sheet metal work (to cover the gaping hole in the rear for the ladder bars) then paint.

I know it doesn't look like it, but it's getting there. With every $1000 purchase, it gets a little closer. Still have to buy a high dollar converter, valvebody, flexplate, and a couple other misc. high dollar items. I've toyed with the idea of mocking up the 4L80 and pulling it back out - put the 727 in it and ride for a minute until I get the converter for the 4L.
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Old 05-23-2007, 07:05 AM   #84
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Lmao, I did not catch this until I walked out in the garage this morning, but the hose that's on the left side of the engine (right in the picture) should be connected to the top bung, not the bottom one... Guess I need to stop working on the car at 10 from now on....
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Old 05-23-2007, 07:23 AM   #85
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....or wait longer before opening the beer fridge lol and thanks for the welcome!
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Old 05-23-2007, 07:28 AM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cranky
....or wait longer before opening the beer fridge lol and thanks for the welcome!
Worst thing is, I was stone cold sober...
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Old 05-23-2007, 08:35 AM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tubbed440
Lmao, I did not catch this until I walked out in the garage this morning, but the hose that's on the left side of the engine (right in the picture) should be connected to the top bung, not the bottom one...
Yea, I was wondering when you were going to catch that

Quote:
Originally Posted by tubbed440
EDIT: Lock up will be actuated via electronic circuit, involving a microswtich on 4th gear (for 4th gear engagement only) and either speed sensoro, map sensor, or programmable output on holley commander 950. Or maybe a combination of the 3....
You could AND-Gate together the 4th gear switch, the speed sensor output, and the throttle position sensor output (or MAP) to control the lockup. This would force you to be in 4th, above some set speed, and below a set throttle opening before lockup.

You would need to feed the TPS voltage (or MAP) into a comparator to generate the trip point before ANDing, same with the speed sensor. The speed sensor might require some filtering. The comparator would need some hysteresis to prevent the converter from constantly locking/unlocking if you happen to be driving exactly at a trip point. It wouldn't be extremely hard to build this circuit, but it would take some fiddling here and there.

Looks good, hope to see that thing run sometime!
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Old 05-23-2007, 08:39 AM   #88
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It's about time you did some work, bitch! Looks good dude.
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Old 05-23-2007, 09:50 AM   #89
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Looking good may run this year!
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Old 06-17-2007, 09:44 AM   #90
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Almost a month since last post. Any Updates; We're all curious!!
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Old 06-17-2007, 10:16 AM   #91
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hurry up!

Looks awesome B
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Old 06-17-2007, 10:37 AM   #92
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looking real good!
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Old 06-17-2007, 09:26 PM   #93
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Old 06-18-2007, 02:05 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tubbed440
holley commander 950.
bryan, pm me dude, i know were there is a killer deal.
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Old 06-19-2007, 05:17 PM   #95
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Not much progress to report on. I've been amassing parts just as fast as my wallet will allow. I've been selling almost everything here at the house that I don't use anymore..amps, RC's, engines, transmissions, converters, mufflers, instrument clusters, wiring harnesses, etc, to get some 0000 for this money hungry beast.

I now have a full manual conversion kit for the 4L80E, just need to buy the JW ultrabell and a good converter. I also need to get an intake, as the one that I have will not be able to be ported large enough for the intake ports on the heads. There's a laundry list of things to do, buy or fabricate, and I'm doing it as money and time allows...lol...which ain't very fast.

Here just a smidge of the pluming for the fuel system.....


Areomotive A1000 for the engine, Holley black pump for the nitrous. I like the tunability of two separated systems. Engine supply consists of 5/8 line pressure, 1/2 inch return. The nitrous system is 1/2 inch supply with a huge holley regulator (dead head) which I might trade out for a return style reg before I even get started.
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Old 06-19-2007, 05:42 PM   #96
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cold85 might have posted something useful at one time
let me know how the trans works i just picked up a nice coronet that i am putting a 440 in.
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Old 08-17-2007, 09:41 AM   #97
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Not much happening lately...but I have been getting in more parts...











You can see that they are "out of the box". They're going to need some work. I'm in process of getting some equipment to help solve this problem. I'll post up some pics during and after the porting.



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Old 08-17-2007, 09:42 AM   #98
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More...

Intake ports can be enlarged just simply by knocking off the material the top of the port...





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Old 08-17-2007, 10:13 AM   #99
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lookin good...its been a year since you started this thread
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Old 10-01-2007, 09:28 PM   #100
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Suggestions

I have a tubbed Challenger that I have been working on for years. Going through a Divorce and other distractions caused me to not touch the car for years. I just got it where I could drive it regularly in the last couple of months. It looks very similar to yours. My original plan was to cut out the underhood to make it more racecar like. I ended up doing the opposite and cutting out the firewall; and smoothing out the underhood. I spent more time doing the bodywork for the underhood than it did to do the rest of the car. I went to great lengths to hide all the hoses and wiring.

I have some things that I would suggest that you do that will let you have more fun with the car.
  • Get the car running with the parts that you have on hand, or can easily obtain. I have a fairly radical setup that I drive everywhere. It is the most fun that I have ever had in my life driving it around. I have driven it on as much as 30 mile round trips and have put around 150 miles on it since I have had it running without break down.
  • Get the body as close as you can and primer it with a good self etching primer. You need to get it where it does not rust and also looks better being one color. That way you also can get it running and work on it to not scratch the final finish. It is extremely difficult to not scratch the body up when you are working on it to get it going. Bodywork can also be done over it, provided you clean and scuff it properly.
  • Take extra time routing cables, hoses and wiring. Even if you are just mocking it up, it is better to get pressure or current on something and twist on it to see if it leaks. These can easily destroy the entire car.
  • Where the roof and the rear quarter panel come together, they were filled with combinations of lead and putty. I filled mine with Metal-To-Metal Filler and it still cracked. My car is able to pull the front wheels and it cracked at a couple of places around the body. Weld a strip of metal into the area to avoid this problem.
  • ALWAYS have the car where it can be moved under its own power. I have literally pushed the car a couple of miles over the years.
  • Go a little conservative on rear end gearing and stall converter. I had a 4700 converter and 4.56 gears and hated them both. I now have a 3.70 rear with a 3500 converter and it makes the car much better. I have a 590/312 Cam which is pretty radical.
  • Donít over-engineer the car. The reverse cooling is a great idea but adds to the time that it takes to get things done. Get things done in a conventional manner first and make the car where you can enjoy it. Complicated setups can be done as sub-projects over a weekend after you get the car running.
  • Keep going over the car inside and out, tightening everything down and using Loctite as much as you can as you start to drive it.
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