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Old 09-07-2006, 09:11 PM   #26
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You need to get it going before you die prematurly on the 440! Lets gettum to the track. Looking great.
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Old 09-07-2006, 09:13 PM   #27
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Damn nice headers, 2" primaries
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Old 09-08-2006, 04:45 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ABeasst
who built the motor?
That would be me. 500 inch stroker. 4.150 crank, 4.375 bore.

https://www.horsepowerjunkies.com/for...highlight=MOTA
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Old 10-14-2006, 05:10 PM   #29
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More progress.....

Made an oil pan today. Not some of my best work, but considering the shape of the pan before I started, I think it turned out quite well. I will need to add some baffles at some point for oil control. I just painted it real quick with some rattle can crap to keep it from rusting. (we all know how long it might sit in the garage un-used.. )





1st chop.....




1st addition














I guess you're wondering why I did this? The aftermarket pans that are 7 qts or more, have way too deep a sump. My car is in the dang weeds already, and I didn't want to have to go through what I went through with the duster, which was weld a steel plate to the bottom and pray like heck I don't hit big dips. IMO, that doesn't make for a nice comfortable ride when you're worried about knocking the pan off. No worries = dependable ride.

This pan is no lower than the front crossmember, so If I poke a hole in this one, there's going to be more messed up on the car than just the oil pan.
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Old 10-14-2006, 05:18 PM   #30
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Looks awesome Bryan!!! Very very nice! I know exactly what your talking about as far as the oil pan dragging the ground. Took Bill (Saturnguy) for a lengthy cruise today and every dip I hit was dragging the ground with the pan. Good thing it has a skid plate welded to the bottom Hell just pulling down my street the crown of the road in the middle my pan was dragging (Bill and I couldn't believe it so we jumped out to look but of coarse our asses weren't in the car weighing the car down so I still have a couple of inches...lol.!

Bottom line....I have to raise my car back up...I have no option. Looks good but drives me fucking nuts worrying all the time. I have my eye on a trick coil-over set up for the front which will take care of my frontend woes. $589 later.

I need to stop by and check out your ride sometime soon. Keep up the great work.

Dave
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Quote:
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It's kinda like bragging about being the fastest retard to ever run backwards in a foot race. No matter how fast you can run backwards... you still look like a complete dumb ass trying to do it.
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Old 10-14-2006, 06:03 PM   #31
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Scammer is damn lucky to even still be postingScammer is damn lucky to even still be postingScammer is damn lucky to even still be posting
bryan..goddamn..i dont kno you....name is kyle, and i wish u were a buick man..been lookin for man wit skillz like yours....and man r u talented...it looks fuckin awesome..im currently still saving up for my 492 bulldog buick block..man doesnt it feel good to have something different..and be awesome..ie buick, olds..MOPARS...looks good man..hey..any chance you kno any buick guys?


thanks
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Old 10-14-2006, 06:23 PM   #32
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Couple more that I forgot to post.


Custom rear coil-over crossmember.....




Rear coil-overs installed.....


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Old 10-14-2006, 06:27 PM   #33
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Bryan....are you supposed to mount those coil over straight up and down? I only ask because I was talking to a guy who had some coilovers installed recently and they had to remove and relocate them because they are supposed to be installed at a slight angle?? they were binding??(at least this is what he explained to me). Maybe I misunderstood him as I am not familiar with coil over set ups. Figured I would throw it out there and let you edjumacate me.
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It's kinda like bragging about being the fastest retard to ever run backwards in a foot race. No matter how fast you can run backwards... you still look like a complete dumb ass trying to do it.
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Old 10-14-2006, 06:50 PM   #34
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Well, they (the coil-overs) dont really care where you put them, or at what angle. However, you do need to make sure that however you install them, that they do not bind. The coil-overs that I installed have a rod-end style bearing at each end. Some have just a threaded rod and one rod end. As long as they can pivot at each end throughout the whole range of suspension motion, you're good. One of the main factors in installing coil-overs at an angle is the fact that the angle decreases spring rate and damping. If you'll look at the pic of the coil-over crossmember that I made, it has several bolt holes drilled in it. Those are for leaing the coil-overs in, about 10 degree increments if I measured right. I did this so I could play around with decreasing the spring rate without buying 4 or 5 sets of coil springs. If you mount them at a 45 degree angle, then you have effectively cut your spring rate in 1/2.....along with your dampening. This might not be exact(I can't remember where I read that, and I'm having trouble finding the article), but it's a close rule of thumb. I also think it has something to do with roll center, but in my case, I'm gonna let the watt's link take care of that.

Your buddy might have had some other dimensions goofed up somewhere.....there are 3 directions that you need to pay attention to when installing them, and if you're off on more than 1, you can cause suspension bind.

Well, I found the article...

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Old 10-14-2006, 06:56 PM   #35
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Ahhh....interesting. I know it was binding but I am not sure exactly how or why. He did say he had to cut the weld off and start from scratch.

Looks like you had it covered. When are you going to start the body? Let me know.
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It's kinda like bragging about being the fastest retard to ever run backwards in a foot race. No matter how fast you can run backwards... you still look like a complete dumb ass trying to do it.
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Old 10-14-2006, 08:03 PM   #36
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Looking good man.......progress of any kind is good.
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Old 10-14-2006, 11:14 PM   #37
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that car is coming together nicely, nothing like some fat mickey's tucked
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Old 10-15-2006, 02:41 AM   #38
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I like your pan, Tubbed! I decided to use the hemi pan after scraping (road hazzard)and denting up my milodon street/strip pan! They are nice pans and the 1/2 inch pick ups are sweet, but just too low for real street driving . imho!

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Old 12-21-2006, 09:30 PM   #39
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Looks good.

Great progress.
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Old 12-22-2006, 10:26 AM   #40
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Awesome Man!
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Old 12-22-2006, 11:18 AM   #41
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Holy old thread batman! Well....while I'm typing.....What's the status Bryan?


I am already ordering all the parts for the wife's new sedan. You better hurry up!
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It's kinda like bragging about being the fastest retard to ever run backwards in a foot race. No matter how fast you can run backwards... you still look like a complete dumb ass trying to do it.
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Old 12-22-2006, 11:52 AM   #42
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I just got my check from where I was in India for two weeks. Lets just say that I'm placing a $1500 order that includes, cam, lifters, pushrods, intake, AN fittings and line and my remote water pump for the reverse cooling......
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Old 12-22-2006, 12:13 PM   #43
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Good deal!
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It's kinda like bragging about being the fastest retard to ever run backwards in a foot race. No matter how fast you can run backwards... you still look like a complete dumb ass trying to do it.
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Old 12-22-2006, 12:25 PM   #44
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Great project, I've always been partial to MOPAR. Subscribing for updates.
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Old 12-22-2006, 01:11 PM   #45
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Quote:
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... and my remote water pump for the reverse cooling......
Taking a page from the LT1 book? Or is this something that Mopar beat GM to from long ago that I just don't know about?
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Old 12-22-2006, 01:22 PM   #46
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that thang got ah hemi?
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Old 12-22-2006, 01:25 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LT1 in a 95 9c1
Taking a page from the LT1 book? Or is this something that Mopar beat GM to from long ago that I just don't know about?
I wouldn't call it a page from the LT-1 book, I'd call it a page from the "if youre going to run the living shit out of it and want it to live" book. BBMopars didn't come that way from the factory.....and I think GM was one of the first engine manufacturers to do this, but hot rodders have been doing it for a while.....

Unlike the SBC, the BBM is much easier to reverse cool, and it doesn't look like a bowl of spaghetti gone bad when youre done. The BBM has an inlet and outlet hole on each side on the front of the block, stacked on top of each other. The top will be the inlet, and bottom will be the outlet.....whereas the SBC has one inlet and one outlet.

I'll post some pics when I'm in the stages of mocking that up too...but first, someone owes me a radiator....HINT HINT.

Quote:
Originally Posted by topend
that thang got ah hemi?
Uh NO. It's 500 inches of PURE WEDGE.
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Old 12-22-2006, 01:59 PM   #48
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LT1. Not LT-1. 23 years difference. But the LT1 was from the factory with the reverse flow cooling and that's one of the biggest reasons it's not compatable with a SBC genI. Anywho... when are we going to get to see some more pics of this monstah and is there even an ETA on the horizon as to when it's going to see the road?
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Old 12-22-2006, 02:49 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LT1 in a 95 9c1
Anywho... when are we going to get to see some more pics of this monstah?

As I get more done, I'll post up. So far, I've spent over 2.5 months out of the country this year for work. Next year is looking a little better, in that respect. I know of 3 days right now that I will be in the garage welding/cutting/fabbing stuff up, and that will be Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday of next week.


Quote:
Originally Posted by LT1 in a 95 9c1
and is there even an ETA on the horizon as to when it's going to see the road?
I have made completion dates in the past, and so far have not met any of them due to a hectic "life" schedule. I prefer not to set myself up for failure by just coming up with some "out of the hat" date that it will run. She'll come to life when she's ready, and HPJ will be the second to know, the first being my neighboors via the cam break-in with open headers and some 110 octane.
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Old 12-22-2006, 07:20 PM   #50
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Brain you have sweet skillz.
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