Dragstrip basics - water box knowledge needed

[Hotwire]

I always go around the water box and back up to the edge, but don't go into the box. Don't feel my tires need water for a burnout (street tires) and worried the front tires will carry water onto the track in front of me. Is this stupid? Also worried I'd sling water into my wheel wells.. Just do a quick 1st gear roll out to knock the tires clean. Thought about trying 2nd gear but don't know if I'd gain anything.

What are yall's burnout/staging routines if you don't mind?

Is there any benefit to water vs dry burnout? Better to burnout in place or roll out of it?

Have a line lock plumbed in but don't have it wired up yet. Worried I'd use it too much.

[Snowman]

If on street tires I don't even back up to the edge of the water. With a small burnout you are not getting them hot enough to get all of the water off.


For street tires, I go around the water if possible and only back up to give me "burnout room" First gear for a few seconds and roll out.


If I'm on a radial I spin just a split second in the water and then do a 5 secondish burnout in second gear after pulling out of the water box

[Dunn]

I use to go around and back up, but screw it, I just pull thru these days with a Radial on the back. figure if i pull through fast enough, tires won't soak up too much water lol.

[patl]

I go straight thru and just as I pull out of the box I stop and start in 1 and shift to high (PG) or 2nd(others) then burning a short distance but not far enough to break the beams.
You planning on running brackets?

[Hotwire]

Thanks guys.

No bracket racing for me, I'm not consistent enough with a stick plus can't get a solid enough launch with what I have right now. Have a handful of 8.3-8.8 slips with 1 8.195 and maybe 2? 8.2. 60' mainly 2.0X. I know I need better tires, just concerned the axles wouldn't take a harder launch. Usually leave at 3k feathering clutch and throttle.

Been randomly going to the track my whole life, just never really knew if I was doing it right/best way for what I have. You can read/watch/absorb all you want, but you never know unless you ask, right?

Guess it's time to wire in the roll control. Just never thought putting heat into street tires would truly help that much, will experiment though, car loves 2nd gear too much to not give it what it wants.

[Russell]

Drag tires will help a lot if you want to get more consistent or faster. Drag radials like to dead hook so on a stick car they can be very hard on parts. I have been told bias slicks will absorb some of the shock and not be as hard on parts. If you want DRs there are some add ons to help with shocking the drive line when you dump the clutch. There is one that controls the pedal and some that work with hydro clutchs by controlling the fluid. On the high cost end you can get a custom long style clutch that is adjustable.

[patl]

I ran brackets with my 64 for bout 5 years with this cheapo setup.
Worn T/A radials 1.8 60' no tire spin.
3000 converter.
1500rpm launch to flash the converter.
8.15's ets.
Worn out front shocks, battery over the right rear.
Oh and a 225 shot for those brake tappers.
Took home my share of wins back in the day.

[Snowman]

Originally Posted by patl

I ran brackets with my 64 for bout 5 years with this cheapo setup.
Worn T/A radials 1.8 60' no tire spin.
3000 converter.
1500rpm launch to flash the converter.
8.15's ets.
Worn out front shocks, battery over the right rear.
Oh and a 225 shot for those brake tappers.
Took home my share of wins back in the day.

Sounds about as fun as bracket racing can be, LOL JK