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Old 09-04-2008, 08:30 PM   #1
mulletless
(pronounced mullet-less)
 
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Cary, NC
Posts: 3,734
mulletless is actually making some sense.mulletless is actually making some sense.mulletless is actually making some sense.
Replaced door speakers in my '01 Camaro

Like everybody else's, the factory speaker in my passenger door was rattling/blown, so I finally got around to replacing it.

I took the advice from this thread, which is pretty good (with pictures):

http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29204

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Here are my details, in case it helps anybody out:

Mine's a 2001 Camaro Convertible - the rear speaker setup is a little different from non-convertibles, but the front door speakers are the same...

The monsoon stereo is a little different from most, because you have a separate amp driving the woofer and the tweeter (ie, 4 wires going to the speaker, rather than the normal two), and the tweeter signal (wires) has already been run through a crossover before it gets to the speaker.

Therefore you must get a speaker that has separate connectors for the woofer and the tweeter. Also, you've got to get speakers with an ohms rating that matches what the monsoon system is set up for - narrows down the selection ... a *lot*.

The guys that did the write-up on ls1 tech did all the homework for us, and chose the Infinity Kappa 62.7i speaker (currently on sale at Crutchfield for $74.99 - I ordered them this past weekend, and they arrived today). They have separate connections for woofer & tweeter, the woofer ohms are just right, the tweeter ohms are close-enough, the mounting depth is right, and the holes line up with the factory holes exactly right.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-ieIBRlP...627I&s=0&cc=01

The most painful part was taking the door panel off (of course). Then, un-do the 4 bolts holding the speaker in place. I used a soldering iron to melt the solder and remove the wires from the speaker. When you disconnect them, be sure to mark which is woofer & tweeter - if you forget, then you can connect one set of wires to the woofer and see if they make any sound (if you connect the tweeter wire to the woofer connectors on the speaker, it won't make any sound, because the low's have been removed by the factory/monsoon cross-over).

Once you get the woofer & tweeter wires connected to the new speaker, solder them into place (making sure to keep the +/- polarity of the red and red-black-stripe wires consistent on all the speakers, otherwise they'll be 180-degrees out of phase, and cancel out each others' bass!) I used *none* of the wires or hardware that came with the speakers - just soldered the factory wires directly to the connectors on the back of the speaker.

Bolt it back into the door hole and give it a little music to see how it sounds.

Next, adjust the tweeter... The tweeter can rotate around so you can point it up towards your ear, or away from you, etc. Also (and this is *important*) - look at the little face-plate on the tweeter, and notice that if you twist it in 1 direction it reduces the actual volume of the tweeter, and the other direction increases the volume. Play with it a bit, and turn it left & right, and make sure you're hearing the difference in tweeter volume. Note that there are 2 independent actions going on here - 1) you can rotate the tweeter 360 degrees to point it, and 2) also rotating it physically changes the volume -- you want to get the combination of these two just right, so that the tweeter volume is set where you want it, and it is also pointed in the direction you want. Play with it a few minutes, and get it right ... before you put the door panels back on!

These speakers sound *much* better than the cardboard factory speakers!
They do a nice job for the mid's and high's. Of course, no 6.5" door speakers are gonna make a lot of bass (especially in a convertible, with the top down all the time) - that's what the aftermarket subwoofer in the trunk is for, eh!

Well, I hope this write-up helps somebody that's needing to do the same replacement!
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