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Old 03-27-2017, 06:07 AM   #76
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Yessirs, I'm dragging azz this morning. Plans are to straighten up the garage tonight and possibly start grinding the welds down.
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Old 03-27-2017, 06:12 AM   #77
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I am impressed! What did the 6.0 come out of? I ask because I would like to know of it had a tow button and if you can tell what it changes in the tune when used.
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Old 03-27-2017, 06:51 AM   #78
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looks great thats alot of work!
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Old 03-27-2017, 07:23 AM   #79
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Damn man... You are making ME feel slow!
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Old 03-27-2017, 10:44 AM   #80
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I am impressed! What did the 6.0 come out of? I ask because I would like to know of it had a tow button and if you can tell what it changes in the tune when used.
It came out of a 03 Chevy Express 2500 work van. All the tow/haul button does is change the way the trans shifts. It increases line pressure to lock up the clutches quicker/harder, holds the gears longer for increased RPM from the engine, and also allows the clutches to stay engaged so you have engine braking, that's about it. Not sure if this setup had a button or not.

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Damn man... You are making ME feel slow!
THAT'S a statement right there! Lol, you feeling ok? Trying to keep up with you would be nuts!
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Old 04-02-2017, 08:18 PM   #81
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Learned a lesson. Harbor freight consumables are total crap. Got a 26 grit flapper wheel from the local welding store, tore through the welds like butter. And goes 3x as fast through flesh. :/ Got a nice canoe carved out of my middle finger.

Got all the welds flattened out, will never win awards but won't come apart, then went stupid with seam sealer, that stuff goes everywhere and gets out of control quick. Wasn't concerned with under the fenders but tried to keep it decent looking across the firewall, will go back and clean off the excess before painting.



Started painting and heard rapid footsteps down the stairs. Daughter wanted to paint some, wasn't going to say no, been a long time since she helped in the garage.



Worked on engine prep while she painted, couldn't get ls1 pan to seat, it was high siding on the pickup for some reason.



After looking it over more, the ls1 pickup mounts to a different stud, the pickup bracket was hitting the windage tray rib around the mounting hole, so I had to do some cutting. Old mounting point to the left, you can see where the new was hitting on the right.



Cut off wheel, die grinder, and file did the trick. Also had to shorten the windage tray since the pan sits so close to the crank.





Test fitting in the engine bay very soon. Going to see how it sits with the ancient rubber mounts, will try the poly setup as well.



Got all the cowl bare metal sealed up too.



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Old 04-07-2017, 05:20 AM   #82
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Buddy in Illinois just put a retro a/c system in his 65 wagon, saw I needed somethings, came home to an unexpected box on the front porch. He sent me the heater control cables and pass cowl vent assembly. My cables are rusted solid and vent assembly is melted from some weird cowl fire before I bought it.



Did a little bit of this tonight.



Have to mod either set of engine mounts to work, easier set is poly mounts. Having trouble getting centerline of engine bay so I can line up engine and properly mark where to cut the mounts. Have to shorten them up as they have the engine sitting stupid high. Can about stick my fist in between pan and frame. This would cause a lot more trans tunnel cutting and driveline angle issues.



This is where I want it, just enough to clear the inner tie rod ends at full lock. Have speed level to watch and angle finder to dial in crank angle. Checked driver's header, beautiful clearance, have to check pass side, also want to mock up accessories and radiator support.

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Old 04-07-2017, 06:01 AM   #83
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Hard to tell for sure from the pics, but it looks like you could just chop down the clamshel brackets and drill new holes for the mount bolt that goes through the poly bushing.
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Old 04-07-2017, 06:36 AM   #84
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Hard to tell for sure from the pics, but it looks like you could just chop down the clamshel brackets and drill new holes for the mount bolt that goes through the poly bushing.
That's the exact plan, was hoping to get that done last night but was having trouble trying to figure out the centerline. Hoping I was just too tired and over complicating things. I could look straight down the water pump / crank bolt and line it up w/ the frame horn, get it lined up, then the whole setup would be off to the pass side. Almost to the point of plumb-bobbing the frame to the garage floor and pulling off that.

I tried to find fixed points to measure off of last night, put a straight edge across the frame horns hoping to use that to make sure the engine is straight, but measurements kept on coming up wrong. Tried holes drilled in the frame by the a-arms, then used the upper a-arm bolts to cross reference, nothing matched. Just trying to find reference points on both sides I can line up with.
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Old 04-07-2017, 04:33 PM   #85
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You don't F around, damn.
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Old 04-10-2017, 07:01 AM   #86
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You don't F around, damn.
lol, wish that was true.

Got a whole lot of nothing done this weekend. Cleaned the garage and basically piled everything up to make room for the missus's side of the garage. Also had to defuse wemmens drama, bunch of bullsh!t I wish on no one.

Had to mod/shorten the engine mounts to lower the engine



still need to finish cleaning them up and paint (Notice oil pan edges are dirty, but flat front is clean, more on that below)



Wonder how much this little feature adds to their swap kit price (glad I didn't have to pay for it)



Got the engine placed on the frame, it fits, but could do a lot better if it was ~2" forward. The oil pan is square, crossmember is curved, causing it to hit on the edges.

Set the engine down and balanced the rad support to see what room I had, plenty up front, 1.5 finger widths from head to firewall out back, 1 finger width between oil pan and cross member.



Finally bolted together, been waiting 2 decades to finally call this setup my own



Tried fitting the whole setup in and failed miserably. The top of the trans tunnel is square to match up with SBC bellhousing, LSx have one bolt @ 12 o'clock so I need:
a triangular tunnel..
or cut the firewall/tunnel and move the whole shebang up to clear
or move engine forward to clear better
or purchase a $370 Holley 302-2 oil pan (eh..)

Don't want to raise the tunnel too high as will make carpet and other things stupid difficult. Didn't take any pics, just imagine the engine and trans wedged between the cross member and firewall at a 15 degree angle, pan on frame, heads hitting firewall. I'm seriously considering cutting little triangles out of the curved cross member to clear the oil pan edges so I don't have to raise the trans tunnel as high. Will be chewing on that idea for the next little bit, not sure when I'll get back out in the garage.
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Old 04-10-2017, 07:03 AM   #87
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Also had to defuse wemmens drama, bunch of bullsh!t I wish on no one.
My weekend too.

You're making good progress!
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Old 04-13-2017, 05:38 AM   #88
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Actually got some time in the garage last night.

There isn't a single flat point anywhere on the frame. Couldn't figure out how to pull a straight line across the cross member and get a decent marking, got desperate, and made do with what I had. (laser guide on jigsaw) Doused some red on the frame to help see the scribed marks when cutting.





One problem, cutting one side threw all kinds of metal dust over the other scribed line, when you're in a hurry and wipe it off with paint still tacky, you end up wiping away your marking. That's gump genius. Did end up cutting a decent line though. Err'd on the safe side, can grind more out if needed.



From below, tried to keep the original center of the crossmember as my stopping point. The plate I'll be using "should" come up flush to it. Lol, some people say I need to lower the car more, bottom of the crossmember disagrees.



Quick shot while I was underneath



Took some time to level the frame, but can't determine what point to make level on the frame? Got out assembly and service manuals, found ride height info and got the frame/suspension as close to those points as possible (1/2" rake measuring 30.5" behind front tire center, 24.5" in front of rear tire center). Turns out the rear coils are only sagging about 1/2" with those spacers in them.

With that done, I checked pinion angle, .5 degrees up? While flipping through one of the books I saw where you can dial in the pinion angle w/ factory offset bolts in the upper control arms, like some upper a-arms. Really unsure of what to set the engine to, everything I've read so far is saying 3-5 degrees down? I really need the trans in there to help figure things out, but running into issues there.

Tried getting the bellhousing on with engine "dialed" in, the damn hump on driver's side firewall for the gas pedal rod is seriously in the way, think it's days are numbered.



Hopefully I can keep this clearance of the tie rod ends once everything is installed. Thinking I might have to put washers/spacers on the engine mounts now to give me a little more room. dammit.



Found another easter egg! Leaky steering box?!? No problem! RTV that bish right up!!

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Old 04-13-2017, 06:30 AM   #89
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Nice work.

I always set pinion angle referenced from crank angle, and I try to set the crank angle as close to 0 as possible. Usually the trans & tunnel will only allow me to get to 3 or so. With solid bushings in the rear that means the pinion points up 1-2 for a degree or 2 of PA offset reference to crank.

In other words, don't even pay attention to those angles until you get the trans in the tunnel and set up your clearance in there. Then see what the crank angle ends up at, then set pinion angle down 2 from the crank or in other words, PA should be CA minus 2.
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Old 04-13-2017, 07:26 AM   #90
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Nice work.

I always set pinion angle referenced from crank angle, and I try to set the crank angle as close to 0 as possible. Usually the trans & tunnel will only allow me to get to 3 or so. With solid bushings in the rear that means the pinion points up 1-2 for a degree or 2 of PA offset reference to crank.

In other words, don't even pay attention to those angles until you get the trans in the tunnel and set up your clearance in there. Then see what the crank angle ends up at, then set pinion angle down 2 from the crank or in other words, PA should be CA minus 2.
Thanks for the input E, trying to figure out where to set the engine with not a whole lot of reference is frustrating. First time I've had to start from scratch.

Other part of the equation is me trying to figure out where and how much to cut the trans tunnel. I absolutely have to mod it because the T56 is a lot bigger than any trans offered in 64. Got to let em swing and just start cutting.
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Old 04-13-2017, 09:16 AM   #91
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It might be easier to just cut the whole tunnel out and bend a new one around the installed trans. That's how my friend did his turbo 5.3 / 4l80 300zx and it worked out well.
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Old 04-20-2017, 06:56 AM   #92
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It might be easier to just cut the whole tunnel out and bend a new one around the installed trans. That's how my friend did his turbo 5.3 / 4l80 300zx and it worked out well.
Only thing is carpet fitment and on down the road aftermarket a/c system clearance? Want to do this right, but there's really no real "right" way at this point?

Here's where I'm at:

Wrestled the engine around last night and was up and down so much I could start an infomercial for ab strengthening / concrete polishing.

The Holley 302-2 oil pan is $400, it's sump is pulled back 2" further than the fbody pan and the front of the pan is sucked up against the engine to clear tie rod ends. Would solve clearance issues.

I need about another inch @ the firewall to get the bellhousing on and start clearing the tunnel. I can possibly cut an inch out of the cross member to solve some of the issues, just hate to hack into it any more.

Also found out my headers were designed around the "GM musclecar pan", or hummer/alpha/LH8 oil pan. (Same one I had in the blazer) The oil filter is sucked into the side of the pan so either fbody or holley pan is going to have interference with primaries and oil filter. This kids is why you do research before letting that money burn a hole in your pocket.

Options:
1. notch cross member at least another inch to provide bellhousing clearance, beat front of trans tunnel (still have to cut rear of tunnel to clear T56)
2. cut firewall/trans tunnel and raise up to clear drivetrain, introduce carpet fitment, heater clearance, and other issues
3. sell f-body pan setup, save up for holley 302-2 (sump is pulled back 2" compared to f-body and front is sucked up to clear tie rod ends)
4. laughably find someone that welds aluminum and mod the f-body pan, and keep the cost less than the holley pan, and somehow maintain oil capacity..
5. find someone that welds aluminum, somehow cost effectively mod truck pan, sell f-body pan to offset cost (LOTS OF MODDING)
6. purchase cheap sheetmetal pan off ebay with oil filter relocation AN fittings, purchase remote oil filter setup, will end up about same as holley pan with no guarantee of fitting same as holley pan.
7. sell everything and turn to gardening.
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Old 04-20-2017, 08:00 AM   #93
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Whenever you swap out that leaky steering box, get one out of a Grand Cherokee. It's a quicker ratio and gives you more feel. You'll need to get a different rag joint and hoses.
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Old 04-20-2017, 08:12 AM   #94
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Whenever you swap out that leaky steering box, get one out of a Grand Cherokee. It's a quicker ratio and gives you more feel. You'll need to get a different rag joint and hoses.
Thanks man, coming from the S10 world I luckily have a ZQ8 box on the floor ready to go. Same ratio as the GC box but don't have to change anything but the pitman arm.
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Old 04-22-2017, 04:13 PM   #95
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Took off my panties and hacked another inch out of the top of the crossmember, but some things happened.



Think this is going to be the final spacing



Trans tunnel needs a bit of tweaking to clear everything, might be better off fabbing a new tunnel out of sheet metal.
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Old 04-26-2017, 07:44 PM   #96
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Undoing some doings



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Old 05-19-2017, 05:30 AM   #97
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Rusted wrists and plasma burn, very apparent I'm a grinder, not a welder. Hoping to finish boxing in the notch tonight and start on the trans tunnel. Had to tell the wemmens unless there's fire don't talk to me.



Had to fill in the lower edge, reason it looks bad, nothing a flapper wheel can't take care of though.



Having to put the engine mounts back together after I initially shortened them. Never listen to the internet.

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Old 05-19-2017, 09:09 AM   #98
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Cant wait to see this project riding!! You are rolling along with it and it will definitely be a fun toy when finished.
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Old 05-19-2017, 01:09 PM   #99
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Cant wait to see this project riding!! You are rolling along with it and it will definitely be a fun toy when finished.
Thanks Jaimie, honestly feel like I've been dragging ass on this one. In my mind I'm supposed to be driving and have the tune dialed in by now.

Once I get all the fab done it should go a little quicker as I'm back to my comfort zone.
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Old 05-20-2017, 05:59 PM   #100
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Burned through a lot of wire and flapper wheels today.

Boxed up



Quick coat of Rustoleum since it was clean and hot



Welded the ends back on the engine mounts, lost one so I had to improvise





Hard to get clearance pics with black..







Clears the tie rod



Next up is the tunnel. Using hose as a spacer. Going to tack strips onto the tunnel, form the floor and tunnel to line up, then make strips and weld em in.

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