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Old 04-15-2016, 09:01 AM   #1
Mykk
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Project: Ares, 1995 BMW 540

Found on CL in Phoenix Az, non-running. I picked it up because it had a V8 & 6spd manual. It was a gamble but if I could get it running my plan was to have a budget Hot Street daily driver.







The car would crank, but it wouldn't fire. It was getting plenty of fuel and every once in a while it would kick like it was trying to spark.

After a month of diagnostics in my down time I finally found that someone had removed the harmonic dampener (likely to put on a water pump) and when the reinstalled the dampener it was clocked wrong. Since the dampener has the crank trigger reluctor teeth the DME (BMW's name for the computer) was trying to fire the injectors and coils at the way incorrect timing.

Realigned the dampener, it fired right up. Sounded nasty, clacking, smoking, leaking oil and coolant. But it ran.

I took care of the oil leaks, coolant leaks, I torqued the oil pump for better oil pressure at idle. Pulled the intake manifold, decarboned, degreased, painted in metalcast red. Replaced the injectors with a set of Bosch Gen III's from a Ford.



I added an Ostrich 2.0 chip emulator to write my own tunes via TunerProRT. I've also got a MAFT-Pro piggyback unit, still dialing it in to convert to speed density and get away from the MAF sensor:



Made a grill from a chevy pickup phantom grill: Removed the massively heavy & broken BMW electric seats for a set of universal budget buckets & harnesses:







Made a set of pipes: 2.5" dual, H-pipe, Magnaflow glasspacks as resonators into a flowmaster Super 10 dumped before the differential.

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Old 04-15-2016, 09:02 AM   #2
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After driving it for a year with the clutch grabbing at the end of the throw I decided to finally tackle the clutch & flywheel:





With the engine out and separated from the trans I decided to dial in the cam timing a bit, advancing the intake cams 4 degrees and retarding the exhaust cams by 2 degrees thus increasing dynamic compression and valve overlap.



Got a set of cheap EBay headers, that barely fit....kind of:



Wrapped the stainless headers in DEI titanium wrap, de-greased and painted the engine. The exhaust will need to get re-made for the headers, I'm thinking of running a single 3" all the way out the back with just a Flowmaster Super 40 at the end. Still awaiting more parts:



The Spec lightweight flywheel arrived, still waiting for the stage II kevlar clutch and the Redline fluid for the trans.



Also cleaning up and painting the engine compartment, removed all of the dead A/C bits. Replacing a leaking power steering gearbox and converting to manual steering. Removed the ABS pump and making new brake lines to the master cylinder with a manual brake bias/ proportioning valve.

Once Ares is back together, running and speed density tuned with a wideband. My only other planned mod is to get the 2.91:1 open differential out of there in favor for a 3.4x or 3.6x:1 locker diff. Probably change the wheels out at some point in time.

I do have an idea for nitrous, but the cam timing now is not in favor of nitrous. May do it anyways.

There aren't any tracks near where I live, so really I'm just interested in building a fun street machine.

Cheers -Mykk
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Old 04-15-2016, 10:04 AM   #3
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I like projects like these, off the wall and cool.
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Old 04-15-2016, 12:09 PM   #4
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Cool project. I love V8 Sports Sedans. So you live in AZ and removed all of the AC?
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Old 04-15-2016, 01:48 PM   #5
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Is that a M60?
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Old 04-15-2016, 03:28 PM   #6
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Nice! I've been looking at old BMWs on Craigslist ever since I owned that 86 7 series I had for a while. Something about it just made me want one.
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Old 04-15-2016, 03:33 PM   #7
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Very cool project!!!!

That billet phantom grill looks awesome!
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Old 04-16-2016, 12:31 PM   #8
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So you live in AZ and removed all of the AC?
Yeah, I live in a higher elevation so it doesn't usually go past high 90's in the summer. It'll be hot, but manageable.

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Is that a M60?
It is, the M60B40. It also happens to be the Nikasil block. I figured if it were going to have it's problems it would have done it years ago with the high sulfur fuel. Otherwise it's a pretty potent and torquey motor.
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Old 04-16-2016, 01:56 PM   #9
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Cool project!!
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Old 04-16-2016, 02:47 PM   #10
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it's a pretty potent and torquey motor.

o rly?
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Old 04-16-2016, 08:08 PM   #11
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That's definitely not something you see every day. The grill is interesting and looks like you did it well, but what are you doing for headlights?
Not sure if I would have put any money into that BMW V8, but I applaud you for going for it . Personally I'd have put the money into making sure the suspension is well sorted out, and start thinking about an engine swap.
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Old 04-18-2016, 08:55 AM   #12
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I kind of dig the engine platform. A 90 degree V8 with 32v DOHCams, 10:1 compression, 240 & 260 duration cams. The engine is designed kind of like a Ford Mod motor but has an LSx design intake manifold and makes 75hp per Liter of displacement. To me it sounds kind of like a mustang with more expressive and vocal pipes and it's an engine that you don't see everyday.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mem9F4RPufk
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Old 04-18-2016, 04:08 PM   #13
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sounds pretty sweet!

How is it in the car with no pipes after the flowmaster?
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Old 04-18-2016, 06:09 PM   #14
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sounds pretty sweet!

How is it in the car with no pipes after the flowmaster?
It's definitely loud in the car, which I like. I think using those glasspacks has prevented the dreaded interior drone/resonance that makes you want to bash your head against the wall.

I had a girlfriend that would borrow Ares once in a while, when I would hear her coming from a couple miles away I couldn't tell what direction the car was coming from as the sound would bounce off of all surfaces.
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Old 04-19-2016, 12:06 PM   #15
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That is a big engine assembly for a small displacement:



Loading it up to take to the shop so I can use air tools to zap off the pressure plate and flywheel and torque on the new bits.
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Old 04-19-2016, 01:36 PM   #16
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Hah, a 540i 6-speed. Haven't seen one of those things in years.

A friend of mine's dad had one of those back when I was in high school. Was a very fast 4-door for it's time.
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Old 04-20-2016, 04:26 PM   #17
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Well, an unsprung version of the clutch disc arrived with the Spec clutch kit. Even after the website I ordered it from advertised it with a sprung hub. I'm rather tired of going around in circles with parts suppliers trying to get parts that either fit or are what I ordered, then waiting on hold on the phone for an hour to talk to a rep. So I installed the flywheel & clutch as is. I'm anticipating the On/Off switch feeling clutch as well as possible chatter. My only saving grace is that it's a kevlar full face disc.







Also weighed the OE flywheel and hardware



VS:

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Old 04-20-2016, 05:09 PM   #18
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In an effort to keep the transmission gears chatter/rattle/noise down I am following UUC Motorwerks advice here:

http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_te...nny_rattle.htm

Blending Redline 75W140NS and D4 ATF.

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Old 04-22-2016, 10:07 AM   #19
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Got the trans mounted, needed to trim what appears to be a blank starter boss in the engine block and bell housing.



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Old 04-28-2016, 08:04 PM   #20
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Hey! Somebody left a stripped and gutted shell of a car in my driveway. Ohh, wait. That was me.



Making progress, slowly. I planned to replace the steering linkage and control arms yesterday. With the intention of "while the struts were out of the car" removing a coil from each spring.

However, I couldn't break the strut to spindle nuts nor the control arm bolts loose with my breaker bar in the driveway. It'll need to be a project for another day, in the shop with air tools after a long penetrating oil soak. I did get the steering linkage replaced and now they await the arrival of the replacement steering gearbox.



I've also to flare and bend a few brake lines and then continue painting the engine compartment then the drivetrain can get back in it's home. Hopefully, depending on parts arrival to get mostly put back together this weekend.
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Old 04-29-2016, 12:12 PM   #21
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With the engine out and separated from the trans I decided to dial in the cam timing a bit, advancing the intake cams 4 degrees and retarding the exhaust cams by 2 degrees thus increasing dynamic compression and valve overlap.
That's interesting. I have always found that the opposite will increase engine vacuum (and cranking compression), and low end torque. I am referring to advancing the exh cam and retarding the intake cam.

Al
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Old 04-29-2016, 07:50 PM   #22
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That's interesting. I have always found that the opposite will increase engine vacuum (and cranking compression), and low end torque. I am referring to advancing the exh cam and retarding the intake cam.

Al
I just applied what I knew of degreeing cams from the racing world of roller cam small block chevy stuff. Advancing the intake cams increases dynamic compression by allowing the intake valve to close earlier as the piston is further down the bore on the compression stroke and promotes torque. Yet increasing valve overlap (retard exh) promotes cylinder scavenging at higher rpm but also dirties up the idle quality. The lope you hear at idle from a cammed engine is the side effect of large overlap.


By reducing the valve overlap (adv exh/ret int) allows for a super smooth idle and good manifold vacuum at the expense of cylinder scavenging at higher rpm, that is compensated for by retarding intake cams and lowering compression. Since more compression makes for more rotational resistance at higher rev.

This is an interesting Tomato vs Tomato. The world I knew was to always shoot for as much post intake valve closing compression as the octane fuel would allow. Then for as much overlap to still be streetable and then let initial ignition timing clean up the idle.

Once my project is back together and running I may A/B the two trains of thought regarding cam timing to see which one is more fun on the street.
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Old 05-11-2016, 08:23 AM   #23
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Old 05-11-2016, 08:50 AM   #24
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Very cool build!
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Old 05-27-2016, 06:07 AM   #25
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Towed the car to the shop to finish up the project:



Those aftermarket headers wouldn't even come close to sitting in the body of the car or clearing the steering. Even after some time with a sledgehammer.

So I wanted to try one more idea before settling on running the OE manifolds.

2014 M3 S65 exhaust manifolds.





As you can see the flanges aren't clocked correctly. Yet the bolt pattern and port spacing is about perfect to work on the 1995 M60B40. A couple flanges did line up to cylinders enough for me to bolt up & mock install the drivetrain to see if there would be body & steering clearance. Which there wasn't, not even close.

If they would have cleared the body I would have been jumping for joy and then I would have used a four bolt flange on each cylinder as an adapter.

So for now those S65 manifolds are painted up and hanging on the shop wall as decoration waiting for either another project, swap or build.

This time I have installed the OE exhaust manifolds, DEI heat wrapped. Now moving forward with the project hoping to have it wrapped up by the end of next week.



The trunk lid was in really bad shape; Wavy, dented, rusted and previously bondo'd and painted before I owned the car. I picked up a much straighter trunk lid. Despite I personally am not a body & paint guy luckily my business comrade is. He filled in some of the minor imperfections in the replacement trunk lid, shot primer, sanded and the plan is to shoot the lid in base black and then use a flat clear coat. Then sand the roof top (sun destroyed clear coat) and also re-shoot with the flat clear coat for a matte finish roof & trunk.



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