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Old 02-20-2018, 06:42 AM   #226
Hotwire
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Got the harness setup happy on the engine and most of the "main trunk" wiring done out of the car. Pulled it off the engine this weekend and put it in the car. I'm extremely happy with the mock up, there's enough slack in the harness to really route it properly in the car and hide it once done.

Only thing lacking is wire to heater fan and charging cable from alternator. This is the complete engine/trans harness w/ added wideband sensor harnesses and electric exhaust cutout harnesses.



Once I got it in the car I started noticing little extras I needed and it's causing grief. The "underhood fuse box" (what I have) mainly has constant battery power lines. There's an additional relay box and in dash box that it works off of to run everything. I've had to shuttle circuits around to get everything connected properly. The headlights work off relays in the box, but they're controlled w/ ground. I've had to re-wire the 64 headlight and high beam switch to work this way, not a big deal, but more time sunk.

Right now I'm to the point where I have to figure out the clutch / brake switches so I can get them wired up and checked off. This includes fabricating a mount for the clutch switch.

Here's how it looks in the car. ECM trunk will go over the top of the heater box to above the glove box.. box where the ECM will sit. Tidy. You can already see it split loomed on the pass side of the defroster duct.

The main power trunk will come from behind the defroster duct on driver's side, angle over to the steering column, go behind column supports (in front of in pic), then route up over the fuse box (cascade into the connectors). It will look a lot better once I get it zipped up and split loom over it, have to leave it loose to run all the other wires. You can see all the battery power (orange wires) on the far left.



And finally figured out how to mount the fuse box solidly. Used 2 zipties to the dash c-channel, then hacked the factory box mount so it hugs the column support. This angles the box away from the gauges for more room and also improves fuse/relay accessibility on the backside.



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Old 02-20-2018, 10:27 AM   #227
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a lot of work but Im sure the payoff will be worth it
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Old 02-21-2018, 06:09 AM   #228
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Preciate it man, I hope so too.
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Old 02-27-2018, 07:28 AM   #229
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Apologies for the intermission guys, DD left me walking last week. Timing chain tensioner let go while going 70mph down I73 w/ cruise control on. Plastic got between cam sprocket and chain, cam jumped timing, all intake valves and pushrods are done. Couldn't shut it down quick enough.







Snapped a 1 tooth off the "Camshaft Phaser", friggin $130 hydraulic cam sprocket..







Dropped coin at stealership and Napa, hopefully will have all parts by Thursday and back on the road this weekend and back to our regularly scheduled project.
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Old 02-27-2018, 07:12 PM   #230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotwire View Post

Apologies for the intermission guys, DD left me walking last week. Timing chain tensioner let go while going 70mph down I73 w/ cruise control on. Plastic got between cam sprocket and chain, cam jumped timing, all intake valves and pushrods are done. Couldn't shut it down quick enough.



Snapped a 1 tooth off the "Camshaft Phaser", friggin $130 hydraulic cam sprocket..


Dropped coin at stealership and Napa, hopefully will have all parts by Thursday and back on the road this weekend and back to our regularly scheduled project.
Sierra Hybrid?
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Old 02-27-2018, 09:23 PM   #231
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Sierra Hybrid?
Yup, Tahoe. I'm a dumbass and openly admit it. Only reason I got it was the price, stealership screwed up listing it and I held them to it. I am enjoying having a 6.0 and getting 20 mpg though.
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Old 03-12-2018, 05:29 AM   #232
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Got time this weekend to shuffle things around in the garage just a bit. Pulled the engine off the stand and tried to get the pressure plate and flywheel to line up to insert dowel pins. No luck at all. 360 degrees and not one hole lined up properly. Pulled the flywheel to see what I had, it's a GM wheel w/ the p/n in place.

So, in lieu of trying to make this setup work (drilling holes in flywheel), I've got it up on craigslist and am looking at getting an LS7 clutch kit, possibly from the dealer if I can get a decent price. They seem to be a lot cheaper than any name brand aftermarket setup and will hold what I've got easily. There's a TON of chinese stuff on ebay, but I know how thin my trans tunnel is..

Put the engine back on the stand and went to the interior. Tried to figure out what I wanted to tackle next. Couldn't see worth a damn in there w/ the plastic still covering the car / windows, so I improvised.



Tried to settle back into the wiring and was stuck on how to mount the clutch switch so that it'll disengage cruise / idle down when I press the clutch in. Came up with a decent solution. Drilled 1/2" hole right next to the clutch bumper, and sent it home. Works great and clears the fuse box too. (brake and brake light switch on right, clutch and new switch on left)



Only problem is I wanted to use that switch as the clutch safety switch as well. (Have to have clutch pushed in to start) This isn't going to work because you'd just need to put your toe on the pedal before it's off the switch. It's at least and attempt at some safety, will get a better solution after I get the hydraulics settled and know the pedal's full throw.
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Old 03-12-2018, 06:15 AM   #233
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lotta work left!
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Old 03-13-2018, 05:14 AM   #234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mwilson View Post
lotta work left!
Yup, just keeping my head down and trying to knock things out without getting overwhelmed. Got some wiring done last night, but still have a lot to go.
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Old 03-13-2018, 08:40 AM   #235
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Wiring can take forever. I always want it clean but end up having to change things around or troubleshoot stuff so it ends up a mess anyhow
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Old 03-13-2018, 09:18 AM   #236
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Wiring can take forever. I always want it clean but end up having to change things around or troubleshoot stuff so it ends up a mess anyhow
That's where I'm at right now. Just trying to keep a main trunk harness with little branches to switches/gauges/etc, but it's going to hell quickly. It's one of those things where the wire was cut 8" from the fuse box and you need it to be 9.5" or something like that.. Ran out of certain wire colors so I'm mixing, dumb shit like that. It'll work in the end, I'm keeping notes, but god forbid I ever have to go back in.

Ignition, gauges, and widebands were done last night.

Wiring up the gauges I will have all the gauges, MIL, and turn signals functional, but the misc stuff lights like high beam indicator, seatbelt, etc are controlled by a body control module, that I don't have. I'm about 80% sure the LEDs are ground controlled so it won't take too much to make them work. Just the more work I do, the more work I find I have to do..
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Old 03-14-2018, 06:04 AM   #237
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Couple more hours in last night. Finally up to speed with where I left off, took a little while to remember / research everything. Strung wires for glovebox light, cig lighter, aux power outlets, and brake/clutch switches last night.

Still have to hook up turn signals/parking front and rear.

Misc items taking a back seat are radio, exhaust cutouts, cruise control, and interior lighting.

Here's where it stands from last night. I know it looks bad, but it's a lot better looking than it's been. You can see the gauges and make out where my buddy shaved the shroud down so that the lip of it is parallel to the gauge faces. This is so I can mate it to the back of the factory gauge surround when I get to that point. I may end up getting a piece of black ABS plastic to run across the face of the factory setup, unsure at this point. When it gets back on the road it's going to be extremely crude at first. Test fired gauges last night, everything works including the lights so I can see them at night.

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Old 03-14-2018, 07:29 AM   #238
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gonna be nice
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Old 03-15-2018, 05:06 AM   #239
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robertmee is actually making some sense.robertmee is actually making some sense.
Looking good....I like seeing the iron and heat gun. Proper way to make splices. I cringe when I see all the butt splices/wire nuts/black tape that some people show on youtube in their installs.
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Old 03-15-2018, 05:17 AM   #240
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Preciate it guys. The iron was my grandfather's weller. I just keep the tip tinned and it keeps on going. Didn't get anything done last night, sold some more parts, and daughter had a band concert so that tied up the evening.

My LS7 clutch setup did come in, ordered it Monday with free shipping.. It's straight from a GM parts place, the setup was cheaper than any REAL name brand clutch mfg that I could find. It's GM, but the clutch disc has LUK stamping, I'm good with it.



The downside after receiving it is I didn't do my homework. The clutch kit is popular and holds very well, BUT, it requires a flywheel w/ stand offs for the pressure plate. Luckily NAPA carries them so I'll be seeing my buddy at lunch time today. Hoping they have dowel pins that'll fit it, then it'll wrap up that chapter. I'll be able to mate trans and engine for hopefully a final time and send it home.

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Old 03-21-2018, 05:47 AM   #241
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Got tired of wiring. I've got it to a manageable state, so I'm moving on to the next task. I was going to do a final bundle on it but figured it'd be wise to make sure everything works before I do that. If I have to cut one more wire tie.. I also had some leftover stereo install stuff in my bins. I used one of the .. self pinching nuts? The sheetmetal nuts you get with speakers? They fit on the glovebox nicely and meshed with the factory bolts, so the glovebox is secured again. Mounted the DBW gas pedal assembly, used old cam bolts from Habanero. I think I'm going to shim it to bring the pedal down a little, then have to figure out a way to bend the thick pedal to get it away from the trans tunnel. Right now it has room but any sound deadener or carpet will have it rubbing.



When I was doing all the rust "repair" I had the trans tucked under the car to keep it out of the way. The dumbass part was me leaving the output shaft open to the elements. When I test fit a driveshaft a while back it "scrunched" going in. I had to knock the tailhousing off, clean it out, then seal it back up.



Insides look clean as a whistle. There was metal on the magnets, but nothing out of the ordinary, just used. Cleaned them off as much as I could, found out a brass brush and green brakleen made short work of the factory rtv. Looked brand new going back together. Used a paper thin coat of ultra black rtv and high temp thread sealer on the bolts. It's ready to bolt up to the engine, have to get the fuel lines to sit tighter to the trans, then stuffing it home. You can also see the cheap wheel spacer I got to test fit the SS rims. The nuts/studs that came on it are different thread than the chevelle, the lug nuts I have are too tall and stick out. I bought acorn nuts when I was working on the tahoe but have yet to venture back to test fitting.

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Old 03-22-2018, 05:56 AM   #242
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More boring to go with your coffee!!

Poured a quart of trans fluid down the output shaft while it was standing on end to hopefully splash most the gears to get a little lubrication going on before I fire it up. Got engine off stand, swapped flywheels, and bolted on trans. I'm waiting to install clutch once it's in the car, unsure if I'll have room to get the engine mounted otherwise.

Started messing w/ the fuel lines. Tried to keep as much of the stock tahoe line as possible but my pos benders just started kinking the lines. I ended up tweaking the lines as much as I could by hand.. and knee. It's not perfect, but hopefully it'll clear the tunnel. Going to pull a bolt off the top plate of the trans and put some type of mount on there to secure the fuel lines to the trans.



I left a length of CuNi line on the frame when I ran it. Plan on a gradual 90 off the frame, strap to trans crossmember (trying to avoid direct exhaust heat), then run rubber line between the trans and cross member to connect the lines together. Have to get hose @ lunch and hope to be back on it tonight.
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Old 03-26-2018, 06:11 AM   #243
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I have honestly done everything on this car about 3 times, if not more. The sad part is that it doesn't get better each time!

Spent Thurs/Fri night bending up the Tahoe fuel lines so that they hugged the trans and kept from rubbing the trans tunnel. Got the lines finalized, was happy with the way they sat, then realized something. The factory kink that puts them behind the intake sits EXACTLY where I have the wires coming out of the firewall.



Pull out the copper nickel rolls and proceed to bend the lines again, cut the fuel line nipples off the factory setup and throw it in the trash. Lines are now perfect, should have done this to begin with.

Pic of the LS7 flywheel w/ the stand offs for the pressure plate.



Got the engine in, clutch and pressure plate installed, trans in, crossmember drilled and bolted, and wires connected. Now have fuel lines connected all the way to the engine.

Here's where it sits as of last night. Placed the intake to check routing of harnesses. Have to back feed a couple wires, then going to tape it all up and hide it the best I can. Still have to run Alt charging wire and battery wire to the trunk.





Hopefully test firing this week, then proceeding with finalizing wiring harness, front sheet metal install, and exhaust. Once full weight is on the car I'll tighten up all the suspension joints and measure for driveshaft.

Left to do:

-Battery cables to trunk
-alternator charging wire to fuse box
-install clutch master / bleed
-install hydroboost (will prob have to do custom push rod)
-install new brake master cylinder / bleed brakes
-reroute front brake lines to clear headers
-paint/seamseal underside of floor pan where patch panels were installed (too cold as of late)
-mock up e-fans on radiator
-figure out coolant hoses
-install exhaust (summitracing setup in shed waiting)
-pull rear yoke, replace seal, probably add speedi-sleeve to yoke to stop leaking
-drop fuel tank and change out sending unit to correct one for trailblazer gauges
-paint windshield channel
-get windshield installed
-torque suspension joints
-measure for driveshaft / order
-hack up gauge cluster for trailblazer gauges

so.. yea... not much more...
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Old 03-26-2018, 06:20 AM   #244
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Looking good
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Old 03-29-2018, 07:00 AM   #245
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Looking REAL good!
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Old 03-30-2018, 06:17 AM   #246
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Thanks guys, I appreciate it!

Lately between my daughter's softball schedule and people in my garage I can't get anything done, but I'm locking the doors and working with the lights off from now on.

Cleared part of the trunk out last night to install the battery box. Just in time for Easter, another egg! I don't know whether it's just being over whelmed or I've gone to the dark side, but this just cracked my ass up, the gas tank says hello. (probably just more laughing to keep from crying) The positive is I don't have to get dirty to enjoy the nice powder coated finish. I really... REALLY need to up my standards if I choose to buy another car on down the road..



Got the box mostly installed. The floorboard is too contoured to mount it out of the way (spare tire/jack mount). I'll make a bracket for it later on and rotate it parallel to the fender, right now I'm just set on get r dun but keep it safe/reliable.



Had another box show up. You know I'm freaked out if I purchased a extinguisher for the car, first one ever! Spark plug wires came in as well.

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Old 03-30-2018, 11:21 AM   #247
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looking good
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Old 04-01-2018, 09:56 AM   #248
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Every person with a phone going last night did Snapchat videos.. Had to download, convert, splice, etc. Not the best quality but you can hear how healthy it seems to be.

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Old 04-01-2018, 11:05 AM   #249
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That sounds great! I bet you're happy.
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Old 04-03-2018, 01:21 PM   #250
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Heck ya!!!! I bet that was a huge relief to hear her run after all that
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