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Old 08-26-2017, 05:17 PM   #151
Hotwire
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Finished up the oil pump and shimmed the relief spring.





Painted





Then while I had the engine open I swapped the stock springs with new springs I had laying on the shelf. 12589774, same spring used on LS1, LS4, LQ4, LQ9, L92. Nothing special, but figure it'll help till I can afford a cam and springs.





Painting the block tomorrow, sealing it up, then hopefully installing flywheel, clutch.
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Old 08-27-2017, 03:40 PM   #152
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Masked it up, trash bags and shop rags, scuffed up the factory paint best I could, did a final degreasing, then started laying it down.



2 light primer coats and 3 paint coats later



Let bake in the sun then rolled it in and had to see how it looked.



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Old 08-28-2017, 05:33 AM   #153
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Nice work!
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Old 08-31-2017, 09:15 PM   #154
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Got my oil pump pickup girdle and water pump snout cover from Ferder Performance. Damn things are pure sex, this hunk of metal is not worthy of these pieces!

I had every intention of taking pics of the girdle but ended up having to loosen the front cover to install the extra bolt, then noticed the rear cover was twisted.. Forgot pic op amid all the bolt torquing and pan aligning.

Engine is sealed, flywheel, pilot bearing, water pump, and crank pulley installed.

Hung a header and dropped intake on, getting excited!



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Old 09-01-2017, 05:49 AM   #155
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Coming together great! Putting together and painting the engine was one of the more satisfying jobs in my build. I went with black on the block and all black accessories, but understand the period correct orange. Thanks for the pictures...it's always a pain to stop and take pics in a build. I should have took more.
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Old 09-01-2017, 11:40 AM   #156
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Looking real good!
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Old 09-05-2017, 08:01 AM   #157
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Thanks guys, thought I was going to rock it this weekend with updates but fell short.

Got engine and trans together, installed in car, dialed everything in, and drilled holes/bolted in trans crossmember. Ran send and receive fuel lines from tank to crossmember, then tried to decide how I was going to tie the new lines in to the factory lines I'd got from the yard. Figured it'd be a good idea to bolt the headers on so I knew where the exhaust would be... and the headers hit the frame. Have to pull front suspension, undo engine mount frame bolts, slide everything rearward about 1.5", then try again.
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Old 09-05-2017, 01:51 PM   #158
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Could the frame be notched?
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Old 09-05-2017, 05:44 PM   #159
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My headers hit the frame on the passenger side. Right at the collector. So I cut off the collector and welded an offset spool piece in. Might you be able to do the same?
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Old 09-06-2017, 06:03 AM   #160
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The primaries are landing on the backside of the crossmember right where it ties into the frame, I wouldn't want to mess w/ the structural integrity @ that point. Pushing the engine back should alleviate all the problems except for driver's #1 is really close to the engine mount. Right now it's sitting on the nut for the through bolt, reversing the bolt so the nut faces the radiator should help, but might have to clearance it a little.

This is looking down pass side, upper a-arm cross shaft nut in bottom left, will have to run new brake line on top of the cross member to get it away from the heat as well.



and this is how far it's off. Driver's is a little closer, can actually get bolts in, but steering shaft and brake booster is in the way to get a clear shot of it, forgot to mention I'd smoothed out the valve cover lips and got rid of the cast seam.



I should have had it done by now but I'm just in the f*ck it state of mind. Having to pull the front suspension down again to get to the backside of the engine mount bolts and having to go through the whole alignment/centering/angling procedure again has just knocked the wind out of me. I'll be back on it soon, just have to get passed the setting it on fire feeling when looking at it. I'm more pissed at myself than anything, but having the wemmens harping on me for being out in the garage all the time is getting old.

How it sits, trophy of my ignorance.

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Old 09-06-2017, 07:04 AM   #161
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looks amazing!
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Old 09-06-2017, 03:41 PM   #162
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Just a FYI....My header ended up on top of my upper CA bolt on the passenger side too. The only way to access it is to lift the truck and let the CA hang, and then you can just get an open ended wrench on it for an 1/8" turn at a time. I had to remove the CA's to press out the Ball Joints, as they were so rusted in, a clamp/puller didn't work. So, when I took it to the alignment shop afterwards, they charged me an extra $60 just because they couldn't use a socket on that one bolt...bastards.
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Old 09-07-2017, 08:07 AM   #163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertmee View Post
Just a FYI....My header ended up on top of my upper CA bolt on the passenger side too. The only way to access it is to lift the truck and let the CA hang, and then you can just get an open ended wrench on it for an 1/8" turn at a time. I had to remove the CA's to press out the Ball Joints, as they were so rusted in, a clamp/puller didn't work. So, when I took it to the alignment shop afterwards, they charged me an extra $60 just because they couldn't use a socket on that one bolt...bastards.
lol, can't wait to see how this one ends up. Hopefully I'll get time this weekend to undo my jackassery and make it right.
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Old 09-10-2017, 08:15 PM   #164
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Saturday got scrubbed but I was able to get some garage time.

Prepped the tank for install, didn't get rattle strips so I substituted fat mat, also sprayed the tank straps with hammered silver.



One more Easter egg found. Just why man?



Had to hand bend the copper/nickel fuel line. Didn't turn out as nice I wanted, but it'll do the job.



Re-used the factory vent but spliced in a rollover valve



Then wheeled the rear over and wrestled getting the arms lined up. Installed the new springs and shocks, still have to torque everything and push the engine back so the headers clear.

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02 s10 blazer 2wd, 4dr - L33 5.3L, Z06 cam/springs, 8.5" rear, 3.73s, built 4L60-E, 02 Z28 SS rims - SOLD Click here for build thread
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Old 09-11-2017, 11:54 AM   #165
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nice
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Old 10-02-2017, 07:40 AM   #166
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Got garage time this weekend. Filled in all unused holes in the firewall and crossmember, then installed the clutch/brake pedal combo. Engine placement set, headers really took the lead and told me where to place it, should have figured that out a long time ago.. Headers in and out around 10 times, tried every engine mount combo I could, engine and trans in and out about 4 times on Sat. Happy with the placement, engine and headers have plenty of clearance, had to BFH massage the firewall and trans tunnel a little.

Man pedals



Filled holes



All headers installed, had to remember to put the jackstands under the a-arms otherwise the frame droop would have shot me in the foot..



Cooking poly soon, primary wraps around lower a-arm bushing.. not too excited about it.



My welding buddy stopped by yesterday to see what I was up to. I was trying to figure out how I was going to mount my clutch master cylinder. The bracket (made for f-body clutch master) I bought was far from working. Bounced a couple ideas, he came back with some others, ended up finding a piece of flat 1/4" steel in his scrap that was the perfect size and decided to make the plate to fit the Tilton master cylinder. He had an oxy/acetylene setup at his house so we spent a percentage of the day traveling. I at first wanted the hole in the plate under the booster so that it would go through the steering column plate and not mess w/ the firewall. That idea was a complete bust, ended up welding the hole back up in the plate and moving it so the cylinder was lined up w/ the side of the clutch pedal arm. I greatly appreciate his patience and determination!

Starting of the custom vs the universal that was not made for my car



My buddy doing work





And the end result. I cleaned up the edges a little more after this pic and hosed it down w/ gloss black. She ain't pretty, but she will get the job done.





Clutch rod lines up w/ side of arm. Have to get a turnbuckle so I can dial in the pedal placement.

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02 s10 blazer 2wd, 4dr - L33 5.3L, Z06 cam/springs, 8.5" rear, 3.73s, built 4L60-E, 02 Z28 SS rims - SOLD Click here for build thread
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Old 10-13-2017, 06:35 AM   #167
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Finally pulled the wheel wells in from the backyard, cleaned them up and did a crap job of brushing on some semi gloss.

This was after wire brush, roloc, da sander, and washing them with eagle one wheel/tire cleaner.



Sprayed the rusty spot under the battery tray with rust inhibitor, dried this afternoon, then literally slapped paint on before a softball game. You can see how much dirt/rust/paint came off them under the saw horse, the rest was on me. This was just the top, I'm leaving the under coat on the bottom.



Pulled as much peal n seal off that I could, then wire brushed the pass floorboard to see what I was dealing with



Got out the power tools and went to town on it. Yabba Dabba Doo! I'm cutting out one section at a time and replacing it. Trying to keep the factory seams intact so when I do get around to putting in floorpans I can do it "properly". Have another spot on the floor in front of the seam, then up on the toe panel where the body mount covers. Must have had a hell of a windshield leak to take out the floor and dashboard like this.



The Malibu Constellation



Unfortunately don't have the funds for real floorpans, so I'm making use of what I have to get rid of the rot and seal it up.

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Old 10-13-2017, 12:52 PM   #168
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I like how you are keeping track on budget, but you are doing absolutely everything that you can labor-wise, and using every skill you have to get there. You are downplaying what your final product will be, this is going to be a super nice ride that will be as reliable as a new car all together. Good stuff.
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Old 10-13-2017, 01:51 PM   #169
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I like how you are keeping track on budget, but you are doing absolutely everything that you can labor-wise, and using every skill you have to get there. You are downplaying what your final product will be, this is going to be a super nice ride that will be as reliable as a new car all together. Good stuff.

Spot on
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Old 11-09-2017, 08:28 AM   #170
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Thanks guys, it's painful going this route but hoping it'll be worth it in the end. I've pulled in sidework to pump up the car fund, but it's not working out too well, reason for lag in updates. Starting a 2nd job at night, I'm supposedly hired, just waiting on the call for it to start.

I started out trying to preserve as much of the original metal as possible AND butt weld the new metal in to keep everything seamless. Don't recommend it at all. I didn't cut all the rust out, was running into issues with blowing out the weld due to the original metal being so thin due to die forming / rust, made for a lot of lost time and aggravation. Then started cutting out as much rust as I could and overlapping the new sheetmetal on good metal, it's going a lot faster.

Pass front footwell done, this was butt welded on rusty metal, lot of cherry chasing trying to seal up blow outs and a LOT of grinding. Can't wait to cover all this up with carpet or something.



Driver side mostly buttoned up, still have a little spot under the clutch pedal and around the gas pedal mount.



Heater box sand blasted, primered, and spray bombed.



Drivers rear footwell done



Pass rear footwell is solid (only pic)



But rear seat well is ate up. Lots of bends, angles, etc. Unsure how I'm going to get it done. New pan is $75, I might have to eat it and order it, feel I'll run into more issues trying to create this out of flat metal.

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